Mastering the art of cutting men’s hair with clippers requires precision, practice, and an understanding of different hair types and styles. Whether you’re a seasoned barber or a DIY enthusiast, unlocking the secrets of clipper cutting can elevate your grooming game and help you achieve professional-looking results at home. This comprehensive guide will navigate you through the intricacies of clipper cutting, providing step-by-step instructions, essential techniques, and tips to ensure flawless execution, leaving you with a sharp and stylish cut that turns heads.
Before embarking on your clipper cutting journey, it’s crucial to familiarize yourself with the tools and equipment. Invest in high-quality clippers specifically designed for hair cutting, and ensure they are sharp and well-maintained. Additionally, gather necessary accessories such as guards, scissors, and a comb to enhance your precision and control. Understanding the different guard sizes and their corresponding hair lengths is essential; consult the manufacturer’s guidelines to determine the appropriate guard for your desired cut.
Once equipped with the right tools, prepare your workspace with adequate lighting, a comfortable chair, and a mirror for visibility. Start by familiarizing yourself with the hair’s natural growth patterns and any cowlicks or whorls. Begin cutting with the guard size that best corresponds to your intended hair length. Hold the clippers firmly against the scalp, ensuring the teeth are facing upwards and parallel to the skin. Gradually move the clippers with smooth, even strokes, following the contours of the head while maintaining consistent pressure. Transition to shorter guard sizes as you progress to achieve a tapered or layered effect.
Selecting the Right Clippers and Guards
Choosing the appropriate clippers and guards is crucial for a successful haircut. Consider the following factors:
Types of Clippers
Rotary clippers: Powered by a rotating motor, these clippers generate less noise and vibration, making them ideal for precise work. They are often preferred for fading and blending techniques.
Pivot motor clippers: Utilizing a pivoting motor, these clippers offer greater torque, making them suitable for thick or coarse hair. They are also heavier than rotary clippers.
Clipper Blades
The blade size and type determine the length of the cut. Blades are typically measured in millimeters (mm) or numbers. Higher numbers indicate shorter hair lengths.
Guards
Guards are attachments that fit over the blade to control the cutting length. They are available in various sizes, ranging from very short (0mm) to longer lengths (up to 30mm or more). Select the guards appropriate to the desired hair length.
| Guard Size | Hair Length |
|---|---|
| Fine (#0) | 0.5mm |
| Extra Fine (#00) | 0.25mm |
| Small (#1) | 3mm |
| Medium (#2) | 6mm |
| Large (#3) | 10mm |
Cordless vs. Corded Clippers
Cordless clippers provide greater mobility, while corded clippers offer continuous power. Consider the duration and frequency of use when selecting between the two.
Preparing the Hair for Cutting
Wash and Condition the Hair
Before cutting, wash the hair with a clarifying shampoo to remove any product buildup or dirt. Apply conditioner afterward to soften and make the hair more manageable, reducing the risk of snags or uneven cuts.
Detangle the Hair
Use a wide-toothed comb or brush to gently remove any knots or tangles. Start from the ends of the hair and work your way up towards the roots to avoid breaking the hair. Detangling ensures an even cut and prevents skipping or uneven lengths.
Determine the Desired Length
Discuss with your client the desired hair length. Measure the hair from the base of the scalp to the desired length using a measuring tape or comb. Mark the desired length with a hair clip or temporary marker for reference during the cut.
Establish the Base Length
Start by trimming the hair to the desired base length. To create a clean and even base, use a clipper comb attachment that matches the desired length. Move the clipper against the grain of the hair to ensure a sharp cut. Once the base length is established, you can gradually transition to shorter lengths using shorter clipper comb attachments.
Guide to Clipper Comb Attachments
| Comb Attachment | Length |
|---|---|
| #1 | 3/16 inch (4.5 mm) |
| #2 | 1/4 inch (6.35 mm) |
| #3 | 3/8 inch (9.5 mm) |
| #4 | 1/2 inch (12.7 mm) |
| #5 | 5/8 inch (15.9 mm) |
| #6 | 3/4 inch (19.1 mm) |
Establishing the Foundation Haircut
To begin, you’ll need to set up a workspace that is well-lit and has a comfortable chair. Gather your tools, including clippers, combs, scissors, and a barber cape. If you’re new to cutting hair, consider using a training head to practice your techniques.
Start by washing and drying the hair. This will help remove any oils or product that could interfere with the cutting process. Comb the hair thoroughly to remove any tangles.
Choosing the Right Clipper Guard
The type of clipper guard you use will determine the length of the hair you cut. Here’s a guide to help you choose the appropriate guard for a foundation cut:
| Guard Size | Hair Length |
|---|---|
| #1 | 1/16 inch |
| #2 | 1/8 inch |
| #3 | 1/4 inch |
| #4 | 5/8 inch |
| #5 | 1 inch |
| #6 | 1 (1/2) inches |
For a foundation cut, it’s recommended to start with a higher guard, such as #3 or #4. This will ensure that you don’t cut the hair too short accidentally. You can always go back and trim the hair further if desired.
Fading Sides and Back
Fading the sides and back of a guy’s hair adds a stylish and tapered look. Here’s a step-by-step guide on how to do it with clippers:
1. Determine the Fade Level
Choose the desired fade level, which can range from a high fade to a low fade. A high fade starts high on the sides and tapers towards the crown, while a low fade starts lower and blends into the hair on top.
2. Guard Size Selection
Start with a larger guard size (e.g., #4-#6) to create the initial blend. As you move towards the faded area, gradually decrease the guard size (e.g., #3-#1) to achieve a smoother transition.
3. Vertical Sectioning
Divide the sides and back into vertical sections, working from the bottom up. Hold the clippers parallel to the scalp and move them upwards with light pressure to remove excess hair.
4. Blend and Taper
To create the fade, overlap each section slightly and blend using a smaller guard size. Hold the clippers at a slight angle and move them in short, flicking motions. Use the following guard size progression as a reference:
| Section | Guard Size |
|---|---|
| Bottom Section | #4-#5 |
| Middle Section | #3-#4 |
| Top Section | #2-#3 |
Continue blending and tapering until you achieve a smooth and even fade.
Tip: For a more gradual fade, use a clipper with an adjustable blade. Set the blade to the desired fade level and gradually increase the blade height as you move up the section.
Establishing the Top Length
To establish the top length, follow these steps:
Selecting the Right Guard
Choose a guard that corresponds to the desired length you want to leave on top. Common guard numbers are 2, 3, 4, and 6, which represent increasing lengths from very short to medium.
Creating Sections
Divide the top of the hair into sections, starting from the back of the head and working towards the front. Each section should be about 2-3 inches wide. Secure the sections with clips or hair ties.
Clipping the Top
Begin by clipping the back section using the selected guard. Hold the clippers against the scalp and move them in the direction of hair growth. Overlap the strokes to ensure even coverage.
Gradually move forward, section by section, clipping each area in the same manner. Take your time and be careful not to cut too short or cut unevenly.
Once the top is cut to the desired length, check for any uneven areas and use the clippers to smooth them out.
Here’s a table summarizing the guard numbers and their corresponding hair lengths:
| Guard Number | Hair Length (inches) |
|---|---|
| 2 | 1/8 |
| 3 | 3/16 |
| 4 | 1/4 |
| 6 | 3/8 |
Creating Texture and Definition
Step 1: Determine the Desired Length
Decide the length of hair you want to cut, considering the style and face shape. Shorter lengths, like fades and buzz cuts, provide more texture and definition.
Step 2: Choose the Appropriate Guard
Select a guard that corresponds to the desired length. Guards typically range from #1 (shortest) to #8 (longest).
Step 3: Start at the Nape
Begin cutting from the nape of the neck, working your way up towards the crown. Hold the clippers parallel to the scalp and glide them smoothly.
Step 4: Cut in the Direction of Hair Growth
Always cut in the direction of hair growth to avoid pulling or snagging. For most people, this means cutting from the crown down towards the nape.
Step 5: Use Different Guard Lengths
To create texture and definition, use different guard lengths on different sections of hair. For example, use a shorter guard for the sides and back, and a longer guard for the top.
Step 6: Blend and Fade
For a seamless transition between guard lengths, use a fading technique. Overlap the clippers slightly as you move from one guard length to another, creating a gradual gradient. This adds depth and definition to the haircut.
| Guard Length | Texture and Definition |
|---|---|
| #1 | Close-cropped, minimal texture |
| #2 | Short, subtle texture |
| #3 | Medium-length, noticeable texture |
| #4 | Long, defined texture |
Refining the Sides and Back
7. Using Precision Around the Ears and Neck
Execute this step with utmost care, as it’s crucial for achieving a clean and polished finish. With size 000 clipper blades (the smallest available), carefully trim the areas behind the ears and along the neckline. Note that these blades are extremely sharp, so proceed with caution.
To define the hairline behind the ears, hold the clippers vertically and slowly glide them along the contour of the ear, following its natural shape. For the neckline, position the clippers horizontally and gradually trim upwards from the collarbone towards the base of the skull. Use light, even strokes to avoid any unevenness or harsh lines.
Once you’ve finished these areas, switch to a larger clipper blade size (e.g., 00 or 0) and gently blend the transition between the trimmed and un-trimmed hair. This step creates a seamless and natural-looking fade.
Additional Tips for Precision Trimming:
| Tip | Description |
|---|---|
| Use a handheld mirror | Gain better visibility and control over the trimming process. |
| Trim in sections | Avoid rushing and divide the area into smaller sections for easier handling. |
| Take breaks | Rest your hands and clippers periodically to prevent fatigue and maintain accuracy. |
Cleaning Up the Neckline
Trimming the neckline involves removing any stray hairs along the bottom edge of the hair. To achieve a clean and crisp line, follow these detailed steps:
- Determine the Length: Decide the desired neckline length and ensure it complements the overall haircut style.
- Attach the Fine Blade: Attach a fine-tooth clipper blade (e.g., #0) to create a precise line.
- Tilt the Clipper: Hold the clipper at a slight angle (approximately 45 degrees) against the skin to prevent cutting too close.
- Start from the Ears: Begin trimming from the base of the ears, moving downward along the neckline.
- Use Short Strokes: Make quick, short strokes with the clipper to avoid excessive cutting.
- Follow the Contour: Gently follow the contour of the neck, adjusting the clipper angle as needed to maintain a clean line.
- Shave the Excess: Once you reach the nape of the neck, switch to a narrower blade (e.g., #000) or a sharp razor to remove any remaining stubble.
- Final Touch-Ups: Use a coarse blade (e.g., #2 or #3) to blend the transition between the trimmed neckline and the rest of the hair, creating a seamless look.
Number 9
The Number 9 clipper guard is used to create a short, even cut. This is a popular choice for men who want a low-maintenance, professional-looking haircut. To cut hair with a Number 9 clipper guard, follow these steps:
1. Start by washing and drying your hair. This will help remove any dirt or oil that could clog the clippers.
2. Attach the Number 9 clipper guard to the clippers.
3. Start at the back of the head and work your way forward. Hold the clippers against the scalp and move them in the direction of hair growth.
4. Be sure to overlap your strokes to avoid missing any spots.
5. Once you have cut the back of the head, move on to the sides and then the top.
6. Be careful when cutting around the ears and neckline. Use a smaller clipper guard or scissors to trim these areas.
7. Once you have finished cutting, check for any uneven spots and trim them as needed.
8. Style your hair as desired.
Fading with Clippers
Fading is a technique used to create a gradual transition from one hair length to another. This can be done with clippers or scissors. To fade with clippers, follow these steps:
- Start by cutting the hair to the desired length using a clipper guard.
- Next, remove the clipper guard and hold the clippers against the scalp at an angle.
- Move the clippers in the direction of hair growth, gradually lifting them off the scalp as you go.
- Repeat this process until you have achieved the desired fade.
| Clipper Guard # | Hair Length |
|---|---|
| 1 | 1/16 inch |
| 2 | 1/8 inch |
| 3 | 3/16 inch |
| 4 | 1/4 inch |
| 5 | 5/16 inch |
| 6 | 3/8 inch |
| 7 | 7/16 inch |
| 8 | 1/2 inch |
| 9 | 5/8 inch |
| 10 | 3/4 inch |
Advanced Clipper Techniques for Fades and Blends
10. Feathering
Feathering is a technique used to create a smooth and natural transition between different hair lengths. To feather, hold the clippers at a 45-degree angle to the hair and move them along the desired area in a gentle, sweeping motion. This technique is particularly effective for blending sideburns into the hair or creating a subtle fade in the back of the head.
10.1 Feathering with a Guide Comb
For a more precise and controlled feather, use a guide comb. Select a comb that corresponds to the desired length of the hair at the end of the fade. Hold the comb flat against the scalp and slide it along the desired area, guiding the clippers as you go. This method ensures an even and consistent blend.
10.2 Feathering with Two Clippers
For a more gradual and seamless fade, use two clippers with different blade sizes. Start with the larger blade size at the bottom of the fade and gradually switch to the smaller blade size as you move up the head. This technique creates a softer and more natural-looking transition.
| Guide Comb | Purpose |
|---|---|
| #1 (3 mm) | Short fades |
| #2 (6 mm) | Medium fades |
| #3 (9 mm) | Long fades |
How To Cut Guys Hair With Clippers
Cutting a guy’s hair with clippers can be a daunting task, but with the right tools and techniques, you can achieve a professional-looking cut at home. Here are the steps on how to cut guys hair with clippers:
- Gather your tools: You will need a pair of clippers, a comb, scissors, and a mirror.
- Wash and dry the hair: This will remove any dirt or oils that could clog the clippers.
- Comb the hair: This will help to detangle the hair and make it easier to cut.
- Decide on the length: Choose the appropriate clipper guard based on the desired length.
- Start at the back of the head: Hold the clippers against the scalp and move them in the direction of hair growth.
- Work your way up the sides: Once you have cut the back, start cutting the sides. Hold the clippers at a 45-degree angle and move them against the direction of hair growth.
- Cut the top of the head: Use the appropriate clipper guard and cut the hair on top of the head in the direction of hair growth.
- Blend the sections: Use the scissors to blend any uneven areas between the different sections.
- Check the cut: Use the mirror to check the cut from all angles and make any necessary adjustments.
People Also Ask About How To Cut Guys Hair With Clippers
What are the different types of clipper guards?
There are a variety of clipper guards available, each designed to cut hair to a specific length. The most common types of clipper guards include:
- 000 guard: Cuts hair to 1/16 inch
- 00 guard: Cuts hair to 1/8 inch
- 0 guard: Cuts hair to 1/4 inch
- 1 guard: Cuts hair to 3/8 inch
- 2 guard: Cuts hair to 1/2 inch
- 3 guard: Cuts hair to 3/4 inch
- 4 guard: Cuts hair to 1 inch
- 5 guard: Cuts hair to 1 1/4 inches
- 6 guard: Cuts hair to 1 1/2 inches
- 7 guard: Cuts hair to 1 3/4 inches
- 8 guard: Cuts hair to 2 inches
How do I choose the right clipper guard?
The right clipper guard will depend on the desired length of the hair. For short hair, use a shorter clipper guard. For longer hair, use a longer clipper guard.
How do I blend the sections?
To blend the sections, use the scissors to cut away any uneven areas between the different sections. Hold the scissors parallel to the scalp and cut in the direction of hair growth.
