Selecting the correct needle for sewing denim is crucial for achieving professional results. Generally, heavier denim requires a larger needle, typically in the range of 16/100 to 18/110, while lighter-weight denim can be sewn with a smaller size, such as 14/90. Needle size is indicated by two numbers: the larger number represents the diameter in hundredths of a millimeter (e.g., 100, 110), while the smaller number is an older system indicating the same diameter (e.g., 16, 18). The needle type should also be considered, with universal needles suitable for most denim weights, but ballpoint needles recommended for very stretchy denim.
Appropriate needle selection prevents skipped stitches, needle breakage, and damage to the fabric. Historically, denim was a robust workwear fabric, and using heavy-duty needles ensured seam integrity. While denim has evolved into a fashion staple, the principles of using a needle proportionate to the fabric’s weight and weave remain essential for a quality finished product.